What’s in Leros?
Leros, a small and remote Greek island in the South Aegean, has gained popularity as a tourist destination despite its minimal amenities. Over the past five years, the number of tourists visiting the island has increased and many foreign families have started to choose Leros as their residence. What attractions or features are present in Leros? Where does its charm come from?
Every day, thousands of tourists get off the sea buses that dock at the port of Aya Marina, both from other islands and from the nearby Turkish coast. Some of them prefer to spend the day on the island and return while others stay for a few days. Only a few of these thousands of people can return after the time they spend there is over, leaving behind a part of their heart. A small survey is conducted among these visitors, and when asked “What is there in Leros?” the majority of the answers are “There is nothing in Leros”. The same question is asked to those who have fallen in love with the island and prefer to spend time there all the time. So the reason for liking and disliking is the same: There is nothing. First, let’s list what Leros doesn’t have. For example, there are no chic boutiques selling branded products. There is not even a five-star hotel. There are no hotels equipped with amenities such as pools, beach clubs, discotheques, exciting entertainment, music, jet skis, parachutes, long sandy beaches, DJ parties, art galleries, concerts by touring artists, chic restaurants, and well-designed cafes. There are no picturesque, typical Greek island landscapes that evoke memories of Santorini or Mykonos. Indeed, by eliminating the Cyrillic symbols from the majority of the island, it would be nearly impossible for anyone to determine its geographical location just based on visual evidence. When you list what Leros doesn’t have, the reason for the fans’ preference for this place becomes clear by itself. Leros is preferred not by those who expect something new from it, but by those who are in search of times when there was nothing. When you list what Leros really has to offer, it becomes clear where its charm lies. Each of the five neighborhoods in Leros, a few kilometers away from each other, is unique in its own way.
Panteli
It is a popular bay, especially for yachters coming from Türkiye, as it is located to the east of the island and is sheltered from the northern winds. It offers a small fishing harbor and a certain number of moorings. On busy days, the number of yachts in the bay reaches seventy. One of the reasons for its popularity is the tavernas lining the shore one after the other. Apostolis Psaropoula, To Pirofani, Zorbas…Excellent culinary options for either lunch or dinner. It is the only location on the island that bears any resemblance to an Aegean island and is consistently bustling, with the beach often teeming with people. There are even a few boutiques. Whichever taverna you choose is up to you, because although the menus vary, the standards are good and the food is always fresh and tasty. The food is always fresh and delicious. Indeed, the first thing to be said about Leros is the high bar of gastronomy. It has a cuisine offering a diversity not found in any of the famous tourism centers that attract millions of visitors. There are two sources of this feature. The cuisine in this place offers a wide range of diversity that is unparalleled in popular tourist destinations that draw in millions of visitors. There are two origins for this particularity. Eventually, individuals who dedicate a sufficient amount of time in Leros come to the realization that they have fortuitously discovered a culinary haven, where they are bound to encounter novel and delightful flavors. Therefore, those who start their experience at Panteli should not be satisfied with what they find here. There are taxis, buses, and all kinds of rental cars to get to other culinary destinations. The closest of these is Dimitri o Karaflas, which can be reached on foot if you are willing to climb a bit of a hill. It is the ideal place to start exploring the “deep” cuisine of Leros from an altitude overlooking the bay, with stunning sunset and moonlight views.
Agia Marina
Agia Marina serve as the boarding point for individuals arriving via public transit. The majority of individuals simply observe this location and then depart. This place offers the basic necessities of daily life with its döner shops, appetizer shops, pizzerias, antique shops, boutiques, markets, post offices, ATMs, pharmacies, and cafes, often with a stiff breeze. Customs clearance is also conducted at this location. The reason why everyone who spends a few days on the island must visit Agia Marina at least once is that Mylos, which was voted the best seafood restaurant in Greece this year, is located here, opposite a mill built on the sea. Mylos gained renown due to the culinary expertise of its founder, Takis, and was then expanded upon by the succeeding generation of the family. Especially with its raw and smoked fish options, it makes a unique flavor history of its own and is packed every night.
Cava Bottega, which has a wide range of drinks, is one of everyone’s favorite haunts. Paradosiako patisserie is a real classic. Who doesn’t like to start the day with a good coffee? A very friendly establishment, especially famous for its cold coffee, is Vassili’s Via Mare with its blue facade.
Alinda
Alinda is the inner part of the bay to the east of Leros, where Aya Marina holds the entrance. When there are rough waves and wind in the sea, it is possible to find the calm and quiet sea as you go towards the end of this bay. It is already possible to swim everywhere on the island. It is never as crowded as Panteli, and there are many good restaurants, tavernas, small hotels, bungalows, and places to leave boats on the beach. There is no need to wander through narrow streets and steep slopes like on the other islands, life goes on straight on the beach. The majority of the houses for rent are here too. In recent years, Maydonosia, consisting of four small charming houses, has become particularly popular. For those who prefer normal hotel life, the Alinda Hotel and the only four-star Chritonis Paradise are clean, well-maintained, and cozy. The coastal road passes in front of all of them. A narrow strip of small pebbly beach between the road and the sea is open to everyone. The hotel’s sun loungers, chairs, and tables are also freely available. Food and drinks are served to those who want. Tseikon, Argo, To Steki… All of them are worth trying. Prima Aneplora is the cuisine of Alinda that stands out from the others. Despite being a fish restaurant, the roasted rabbit and goat dishes are very excellent.
A new marina is currently under construction at the bottom of the bay. Continuing along the road’s natural trajectory will lead you to Zephyros Beach. This location is particularly favored by young individuals, and the cuisine caters specifically to their preferences.
Lakki
Lakki is both the capital and primary port of Leros. A natural harbor, a small inland sea. Its waters are always calm, there are two marinas and a berth for large ships. At first glance, you might think you have arrived in 1950s Italy. The reason for this is based on recent history. According to Article 15 of the 1923 Lausanne Peace Treaty, Leros is one of the twelve islands over which Türkiye renounced all rights and titles for the benefit of Italy. The islands were lost by the Ottoman Empire in the 1910s and had been under Italian occupation ever since. Since Mussolini saw Lakki as a prototype, a modern Italian town has been built here. In this respect, it can be visited like a museum of modern architecture. In this respect, it can be visited like a museum of modern architecture.
Lakki played a vital geostrategic role for the navy fighting in World War II. When Italy surrendered in September 1943, Germany did not want to stand by and organized an operation with special troops to keep the island under its control. From September 8 to November 22, 1943, the battles here were bloody. German and British forces fought over Lakki. The tunnel and underground bunker carved into the rocks in Lakki, which is a witness of those days, now serves as a War Museum. In the mountains of the island, there is a giant artificial ear invented by Marconi. This structure was used to detect the direction of airplanes coming to the island at an early stage. It took until 1949 for the island to become part of Greece.
Lyxnari is a couple-run eatery serving local cuisine among the flat streets of Lakki. Skipper’s, located inside Evros Marina, is a cafe during the days, a great restaurant in the evenings, and a bar at night. Despite all the Leros restaurants, it has a cuisine preferred by many islanders. El Greco, which moved to Lakki after years of being known as Panteli’s most famous taverna, Persiana and Petrino for those who prefer meat. For those who want both quality beach and food and drink, Lime Beach Bar is the place to try. Cava Anousis, opposite the Cinema, offers a wide selection of drinks, while Mpakaliko offers gourmet delicatessen products. Mpakaliko is also great for breakfast. The cafes on the shore also serve good omelettes.
Lakki is also the best place for boating and marine supplies. There is a large marine market, a fishing shop, and the Artemis store.
Platanos
Life on the island is not the same as on the mainland. Certain resources may have occasional limitations. Typically, tap water has a slight salinity. Waste is discarded in centralized facilities. Recycling containers are frequently used. By the way, the locals of the island who spend the whole day outside make sure to pass through Platanos. This small and charming square is the administrative center of the island. The library, notary, and municipality are here. There is also a cafe where you can have a coffee under the centuries-old plane tree, an uncle barbecuing on the sidewalk, and Mahalla, which opened this year and is a meeting place in the evenings.
Another Leros ritual is to stop for an appetizer before dinner at Haris Bar, located in one of the mills at the top of the island overlooking both bays. The view really makes you say, “Where am I?”. Haris Bar’s tapas are delicious enough to make you skip dinner. The way to reach that point is through Platanos. Simply follow the directional indicators labeled “Castle” and be patient.
Only in Leros!
In addition to these five neighborhoods, the bays of Blefoutis in the north and Xirokampos in the south are excellent options for swimming. When the wind blows northward, it is sufficient to travel in the oppo61 site direction, which is south, and vice versa. The deserted beaches visible on Google Maps are without facilities, sunbeds, or umbrellas, but can be explored at any time for wild nature lovers. Sotos Ouzeri in Drimonas, a very small settlement, is worth mentioning. At the end of the road, it’s an empty seaside fish shop, but it offers an unparalleled feast of crustaceans and delicious grouper souvlaki.
Classic cars, motorcycles and scooters are also an unusually frequent sight on Leros. Proving the longevity of 1950s designs, vintage vehicles reflect another richness of the island with their original designs and unique retro styles. Along with the classics that come out of garages and are exhibited en masse on certain days, it is possible to see many examples that are wrecked or squeaky clean.
In the natural habitat of the island, there is a flora consisting of carob, olive, gum, almond, lemon, guava and many endemic trees and plants. The island is also full of wild plants such as ironweed, sage, mint, thyme, asparagus and calico bushes and is home to partridges, hares and all kinds of migratory birds. If you get too cozy with nature, you can also meet cute friends like voles and black snakes.
Traditional agriculture and fishing are still the main economic activities of the island. What is produced in the fertile but limited valleys is consumed in the restaurants mentioned from the beginning. All in all, the modest tourism industry, thriving on the interest of Turkish yachters, adds to the authentic charm of Leros and makes the island the new star of the Aegean. Of course, it’s only for those who expect nothing from a devotee. Because while it is becoming increasingly impossible to find a place where there is nothing, the number of people looking for such a place is also increasing.