Town in the shadow of the derrick: Seyne-sur-mer

The Côte d’Azur is the biggest tourism brand on the Mediterranean coast, but it is not the only wealth of the South of France. Seyne-sur-Mer is one of the many glamorous coastal towns tucked away in the middle of nowhere, and though its name is rarely mentioned, it’s where the legend of the Côte d’Azur began. Its history doesn’t go back very far, but its modern history is very rich and its unique texture is almost intact.

Those who choose to take the short sea journey from Toulon instead of the land route are greeted by a coastal industrial heritage as they pass the famous military port and head towards the first pier. At the entrance to the port of Seyne-sur-mer, a giant derrick, once used to load ships with heavy cargo, stands like a door to another world. When you go directly from the boats in the port to the center of the town, that door opens wide. Therefore, it certainly offers an unforgettable view for those who visit this port with their own boat.

Seyne-sur-mer is a tiny settlement, very different from the famous tourist towns of the French Riviera, and very much its own little town with no fuss. In inverse proportion to its small size, Europe’s largest library of theatrical works is hidden here. It’s not just the Bibliothèque Armand Gatti that’s hidden. Tiny restaurants serving delicacies from the daily catch of local fishermen are also hidden among the narrow streets leading to the promenade, and almost none of them are pretending to be touristic.

Sentences such as “It offers an unforgettable experience to its visitors with its historical texture, natural beauties and warm climate.” are said for almost every town on the Mediterranean coast. In this small town, beaches, historical landmarks and natural beauty are almost all hidden, offering a treasure hunt for those who want to explore it.

Of course, due to its location, Seyne-sur-mer, like many others, has been home to different civilizations throughout history. One of the most remarkable historical buildings in the town is the 17th-century Saint-Louis Church with its Gothic architecture. The Old Port in the center of the town is both a marina and a fishing port. It is not possible to discover the history of the region by walking around the port. To do this, you need to walk along the coastal road to the legendary Tamaris neighborhood. The first discovery on this road is the Côte Bleue natural park just outside the town, perfect for nature lovers. You can hike, bike and enjoy nature here, but again, you will not have discovered it. Because nobody tells you that where you are is actually the birthplace of the tourism sector.

Tamaris was the work of a sailor named Michel Pasha who worked for the Ottoman Palace at the end of the 19th century. From 1855 onwards, Pasha equipped the coasts of the Ottoman Empire with lighthouses and received the right to operate them in return for his service. After living in Istanbul for many years, he spent his huge fortune to create a place like the Bosphorus in the land of his birth. He decorated the two sides of this narrow bay with exotic and oriental mansions, built hotels and two casinos, and created a residential concept that is only visited on holidays. He named the ferries running between the two coasts Istanbul and Bosphore. At least this information is enough to make sense of everything you see and to collect clues about this strange past. The bottom of the bay is a narrow beach of 30-40 meters. Michel Pasha’s dream was to open a canal here and create a real strait. He didn’t succeed, but he did give Seyne-sur-mer an exquisite hidden beach. So even the beach is hidden here. It is a joy to discover. The cafes and restaurants right next to the beach show that even this small town is a resort area just a few kilometers from the center. The architectural texture of the neighborhood is almost entirely the work of Michel Pasha. Among the traces left by him are not only these houses but also the Institute of Ocean Sciences. An article published in the 1890s in the local newspaper of Tamaris, describing the region, reflected Michel Pasha’s ingenuity as follows: “That capricious magnanimous person who owns these vast estates… That multimillionaire pasha… He does not like to be paid attention to. He does not care about himself, but about this wonderful piece of land. It is true. He created this place out of a swamp. And he has spoiled this land with both nature and art.” Perched on a hilltop in Tamaris, the 3700-square-me-ter, three-storey palatial mansion, an example of Italian architecture, now functions as an art center. It hosts exhibitions on contemporary art, especially those with a conceptual dimension.

For those who do not come by boat, there are accommodation options of different standards. Airbnb is the first choice for most visitors because it offers the chance to spend time here like a local. Hôtel Mercure is nestled in the marina and literally in the shadow of the famous derrick. The views from the room are also great. Hotel Les Jardins d’Agathe is ideal for those looking for a comfortable stay with its sea view rooms and stylish design. There are also local hostels and apartment rentals for those looking for more affordable accommodation options.

There are many places to discover around Seyne-sur-mer. The neighboring city of Toulon is the first place to visit with its historic harbor and lively atmosphere. Daily tours to Porquerolles Island are also very popular. The castle of Balaguier in Seyne-sur-mer is another historical building that bears witness to those years. The museum inside is housed in one of its towers. The castle was built in 1636 to strengthen the defense system of Toulon. It is also used as a history, art and maritime museum. Among the museum’s collections are cannons used on ships of different sizes, vehicles used by forcers and navigation devices used in past ages. The museum also organizes a major exhibition every year. The fact that it has a very large archive on the history of the region and maritime history has brought the institution together with its function as a research center.

In this Mediterranean town with its narrow streets, daily marketplace, shuttered houses and fishing port, eating croissants and orange jam, the primary local product, is a breakfast ritual for locals and tourists alike. After breakfast, it is also possible to trace the traces of artists who fled to the region due to the conditions of World War II. Among them are important writers such as Bertolt Brecht, Egon Erwin Kisch and Ludvig Marcuse. Another famous person who chose to vacation here is George Sand, who also wrote a book called Tamaris.

The natural port where the town is located has been important throughout history and is a current strategic location for France. Napoleon Bonaparte, who shaped the history of Europe during his lifetime, also left his mark in this region. This port, which played an important role in the colonization of Algeria when it became the primary port for France’s colonies in North Africa, is still home to the largest aircraft carrier, the Charles de Gaulle, and tourists are given a tour of this giant ship. All in all, a trip to Seyne-sur-mer with a connection to Toulon deserves to be included in the itinerary of those who come here, as there are countless surprises.