Culture of wine overlooking the sea
Many people think of kebabs, raki and coffee when they think of Türkiye. “Turkish wine” usually means nothing. Yet the territory of this country is one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the world and, according to historians, the homeland of wine. Unlike in the past, today’s leading vineyards and wine producers are located in coastal areas, on hillsides overlooking the sea.
Glasses and jugs from thousands of years ago, Ionian amphorae, depictions of Hittite kings offering wine to the gods, Cilician coins decorated with grape clusters, legends and various inscriptions found in archaeological excavations point to a wine culture heritage that is thousands of years old. Anatolia has been an important center for viticulture, production and wine trade throughout history. The significant progress made in recent years is also remarkable. Investments in modernization, more and more educated producers and awards in international competitions all point to a revival in the wine sector. The Wines of Türkiye Platform (WOT), which was established with the aim of entering the top five in wine tourism, was also a step towards the development of the sector.
The discovery of grape seeds from early civilizations tells us that viticulture is as old as humanity and started in Anatolia. Archaeological findings from the Hittite civilization, which lasted for six centuries after arriving in Anatolia in 2000 BC, reveal the importance attached to viticulture. The coins used in some parts of Western Anatolia feature ornaments representing grape clusters and jugs. It is also known that Phrygian and Hellenic civilizations exported grapes to Europe. In addition to the Minoan civilization, the ties of the Phoenicians to Crete played a very important role in this period.
Patrick Mc Govern, a molecular biologist and wine historian, and Jose Vouillamoz, an agronomist, argue that the first vineyards on earth appeared in southeastern Anatolia ten thousand years ago. DNA analysis of grapevines harvested in Armenia, Georgia and Anatolia suggests that the first domestication of wild grapes took place in the southeastern Anatolia region known as Mesopotamia. Analyses conducted in the laboratories of the University of Pennsylvania also reveal that the first winemaking is also from the same region. DNA analysis proved that these grape varieties originated from 13 different wild vine varieties. As a continuation of this culture, production in Türkiye continued for many years in inland regions far from the sea, with the Cappadocia region being particularly prominent.
It was the spread of modern manufacturing to coastal areas that revitalized industry. Anatolia is surrounded by four seas on three sides and many grape varieties are now turning into wine by looking out to sea. The Black Sea region in the north, stretching all the way to Georgia, is very rainy and rarely sunny. Despite these climatic conditions, Türkiye’s best white wines come from this region. Produced from the Narince grape variety, the wines meet international standards with their crisp, clear acidity and aromatic richness.
The European part of the Marmara Sea coast west of Istanbul accounts for about twenty percent of the country’s grape production. The legacy of Byzantine church viticulture was revived starting in the 1930s, with the largest vineyards in Şarköy, Mürefte, Hoşköy, Uzunköprü, Edirne and Kırklareli. The Dardanelles and Gallipoli peninsula are also important wine-growing areas. International grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are grown in this region. Avşa Island, located in the Marmara Sea, also has a microclimate suitable for good yields. There are many small producers in the region.
The first wine route project launched by the Thrace Travel Entrepreneurs Association with the support of small producers in the region has opened new avenues for promotion. Wine lovers can get to know the depth of this culture by visiting the vineyards.
The Aegean coast, which covers a wide area from Çanakkale to Bodrum, accounts for forty percent of production. The climate is hot and dry in summer and cold and rainy in winter. In the vicinity of Truva is Bozcaada, where the most important grape variety is Karasakız. The whole island is a wine-growing area. Around Izmir, the main grape varieties in Çeşme and Seferhisar are Muscatel, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. The second wine route was also created in this region. Half a dozen producers in the Urla district of Izmir, famous for its ancient vineyards and olive groves, have come together around this route and created high-end gastronomy hotspots to offer wine-loving travelers a colorful journey.
In Türkiye, a wine enthusiast who travels only along the coast can experience the differences in taste that arise from grapes grown overlooking the sea, as well as meet new grapes they have never tasted before. Neferiye, produced from the Kanlıkara grape, which grows wild on the slopes of Muğla overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, is one of them. This local grape, which grows in a natural environment wrapped around trees in high-altitude villages, is fermented with the natural yeast in its skin and turned into wine.